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Hydranix_

HG Member
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About Hydranix_

Profile Information

Computer Specs

  • CASE
    Corsair Carbide R400
  • Motherboard
    ASUS P8Z77-V LK
  • CPU
    i5 3570K @ 4.5GHz
  • CPU Cooler
    Corsair H100
  • RAM
    g.Skill Ripjaw Z 4x4GB 2133MHz
  • Graphics Card(s)
    GTX 770 ACX Cooler
  • Sound Card
    Audigy 4 Pro
  • Power Supply
    Corsair HX750
  • HDD/SSD
    Patriot Torqx 2 64GB(died) && Revodrive 111GB(half died) && Samsung EVO 120GB SSD
  • Cooling
    Custom fans
  • Operating System
    ArchLinux - Heavily hand patched kernel
  • Display Monitor(s)
    Samsung 32" 1080p
  • Mouse
    Logitech G5
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G510

Recent Profile Visitors

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Steam Account

  • SteamID
    STEAM_0:1:100696844
  • SteamID 3
    [U:1:201393689]
  • Community ID

Hydranix_'s Achievements

Advanced Member II

Advanced Member II (4/10)

34

Reputation

  1. It's a shame to see that you've retired, fellow Concordian.

  2. Resources for learning sourcepawn, as compared to common general scripting and programming languages, for all intents and purposes, suck majorly. evo linked pretty much the best of the best and you won't find much better for sourcepawn resources. After you get setup like evo has laid out, and If you have prior experience scripting (outside of shell scripting), or programming languages, you'll find just reading and slightly modifying source code of other people's scripts to be the fastest way to learn. This is especially true for plugins that you've played with in game and that directly modify the game mechanics. Avoid the most poplar 10000+ lines scripts, they'll be so segmented that you probably won't be able to follow yet. Also, when reading source code of sourcemod plugins, the syntax is very loose, sorta like C or Java, meaning that no two scripts are guaranteed to look similar. To fix this, you can use tools meant to format C/C++ code, as they will work fine on sourcepawn code as well. clang-format is what I've used in the past without trouble.
  3. What does your picture say?

    1. Hydranix_

      Hydranix_

      It's my HP, 1645 from knife siphon.\

  4. I'll add that a sm_slap can be useful in situations where a player is not responding to messages in chat, but a sm_kick is too severe to be warranted. Slapping for 0 damage very clearly signals to a player that an admin requires your attention. Every time I've used it like this, it successfully started dialog with the player and myself. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The following is confirmed for CSS, unknown for other games. ---------------------------------- Another shortcut for targeted commands is @bots which targets obviously, all bots. ---------------------------------- Directed/Private chat also supports: (in team_say) @@ text : sends chat message only to [Mod]s and above. (Specifically to exclude (gold) [Admin]s) @@@ text : sends chat messages only to [staff]s and above. (Specifically to exclude [Mod]s) ---------------------------------- !teamswitch <player> (console: teamswitch <player>) Is also valid, however it switches the target immediately, without respawn, and without changing their player model. It's never appropriate to use this command in CSS. ----------------------------------- Spray removal warning When removing a spray, the punishment menu is opened immediately after removal. On the deathmatch servers, yours guns menu can become overlapped by the punishment menu. The guns menu will no longer be visible, only the punishment menu, however selecting an option will instead interact with both menus. The punishment menu will close upon choosing an option, the punishment will be issued, and your guns menu option will have been selected, the punishment menu will then show again shortly after, if the guns menu has not completed and closed, it may overlap the punishment menu and you may accidentally punish a player. The timing of the punishment menu showing again can be unexpected as well, and you may accidentally punish a player especially if you use 1-4 to select weapons. This is a limitation of the plugin system and sourcemod.
  5. This has always been true but I honestly only ever came to know about it about a year ago. Also a good reason why smoke grenades are admin-only. Oh the abusability of throwing a smoke and toggling your aimbot D:
  6. Gratz tex, i'm looking forward to you perma banning for me :D

  7. Yes, but if you buy a proper PSU (modular is a good idea), you should have every power connection available. Granted you may upgrade something like a GPU which your PSU had proper 2x 6pin power connectors, and now you need 2x 8pin connectors, in which case an adapter may be the only option. The adapters I hate are the two 4pin molex (think old IDE HDD power) to 6pin AUX/PCIe power. Those invite all kinds of mistakes that most people aren't aware of. Adapters also invite trouble by potentially pulling the maximum current from one rail, while using almost none from the other rail. This causes one rail to become much hotter than the other and degrades the power supply faster. A power supply is rated by its output power, not its input power. So a 500W power supply at 100% its capability will deliver about 500W of power to its load, but will draw more than 500W from the mains depending on its efficiency. For some and usually the best PSUs you'll get good efficiency at 50%, but for most decent PSUs, 70% +/-10% i believe is a good target to aim for. No system will draw its max power for any extended period of time unless designed for that exact purpose (but then why would they be reading this). So aiming for max load to be 50% of the PSU's rated maximum will mean that the power supply is running at far less than 50% its rated max which also happens to be the least efficient way to run a PSU. Any properly designed, high quality switched mode power supply should not whine as the inductors windings are secured to the core, and the whole inductor is usually hotsnotted to the board.
  8. PSU is the single MOST important part of any and every computer. This is the one component you can not afford to cut cost on in any way. PSUs have the ability to instantly destroy every single other component, and in the case of a few uncertified Chinese brands, the user as well. Only buy a PSU that is of a respected brand. Only buy a PSU with a 80 PLUS Gold or better rating. (This rating is regarding its efficiency which is an indicator or high quality parts) Never load your PSU over 100% of its capability. Test the PSU switch and check that fans work (be aware of quiet PSUs which fans only work when needed). RMA immediately if not. DO NOT USE. Listen for high pitched whines, squeals, or other "electrical sounds". PSUs should be silent other than their fans and relay switches. RMA if the PSU makes any weird noises. Trust your instincts. Do NOT use any kind of adaptors for adapting any plug to anything else. For example: 4-pin 12V CPU connectors --> 8-pin 12V CPU connector Molex --> PCIe 6/8 Pin connector Molex --> Case Fan (god forbid) Case Fan Header --> anything other than cooling components Don't buy a PSU that has a maximum wattage rating that far exceeds the maximum you will actually draw. You'll want to aim for between 70% and 90% load at all times, even idle. (If you live where your mains voltage is 220/240, you can aim for 60%-90% load). That means that if your system pulls 300Watts at full load with all of your crap plugged into it, than you only need a ~350Watt PSU for maximum efficiency. Why does efficiency matter? Well it does cost you money for the wasted power, but more importantly, inefficient electronics turn the wasted energy directly into heat. If you have a 1200Watt PSU, only ever use 100Watts, and it runs so inefficient that it wastes about 50Watts, then that adds ~0.025C per second to your system. That's almost 100C per hour of unnecessary heat that needs to be removed from the system. That heat would be better removed from your CPU.
  9. Happy belated birthday :D

  10. I knew you were walling, you weren't trying very hard to hide it.

    1. ⓈⓉⒺⒶⓂ Admin
    2. ⓈⓉⒺⒶⓂ Admin
    3. Hydranix_

      Hydranix_

      Your face gun and arms were sticking through the fence. I knew there was no way you could have seen me but the blatant disregard for walling was kinda funny. The ban report too, no fucks given I guess?

  11. Honestly, the past 5 years Intel has gained such huge lead on AMD it doesn't look like AMD will ever recover. Gone are the days of the Athlon 64 x2 making a joke of Intel. That old CPU does not allow that GPU to flex is muscle at all. OP you'd be better off with any i3, i5 or i7 released since the fx-4130 was made. My temps with an H100 range between 20C and 90C. The latter only when I'm doing extremely intense floating point calculations or stress testing. As for your supposed temperatures... bullshit. An H60 alone cannot make the coolant inside of it any colder than ambient air temps. Since you apparently live in Pheonix Arizona, your ambient air temp is around 36C, so that means something else has to be going on. At 7C with 36C ambient temps, even in dry ass failizona, your computer would be generating a considerable amount of condensation inside of it which will slowly but surely destroy the hardware. Either: A ) You have your computer near an air conditioner. B ) Your BIOS/Management Bus is flawed severely. C ) Your using a shitty program which cannot read a shitty cpu for its temps properly.. D ) You've set the offset temperature in your program to -30 because you're so clever and kewl.
  12. great..... im guess im getting banned for being to good smh lol

    1. lil.dude

      lil.dude

      there were also props and shadows going through stuff. Of course i would shoot it. Fix that before you start banning

    2. jonmac5037

      jonmac5037

      Yeah you were right, apologies on behalf of the Division.

  13. The dumb thing here is, if the FBI/CIA/NSA or any other well-funded cyber-warfare-capable entity has even the slightest ability to penetrate a system any they have any interest in doing so, a warrant is nothing and will mean nothing, signed or denied...