Welcome to The Forum

Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads

Car Treble


fdh
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nissan_Maxima_2000.jpgtreble-clef-2.jpg

 

2000 Nissan Maxima. Quits on me if it sits idle on the first startup in the morning (after a cold, cold night). Keeps quitting on me whenever I have to come to a complete stop when the engine is still cold. Car shakes like I'm in a paint mixer or something at stop lights when the engine is still cold. When it's warmed up there are no problems. If I drive in the morning and wait til the evening to drive again, or if I don't crank up the car til the afternoon for the first time, there is no problem. Took it to the Nissan dealership and they couldn't get any codes to popup nor could they figure out what was wrong. They did the carb cleaner on the intake manifold and deduced that my problem might be fixed if I paid $1200 to have the intake manifold replaced. I don't want to pay 1200 for a possible fix. I don't really wanna try replacing just the intake manifold gasket either. 1) I don't have the tools to keep the engine lifted and 2) I'm not sure if that would solve my issue.

 

Any suggestions?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My only suggestion would be to break into the X5 behind your car. Much simpler and cheaper than trying to fix your issue.

 

 

Thinking back, a friend had an issue very similar to this on a 1998 Bonneville. I'm pretty sure he replaced the gasket and it resolved the issue...Good luck though! =[

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clean your MAF.

 

How to remove MAF, should be similar on your car http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html

 

Use this http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.html?site=google_base to clean it, DO NOT touch any of the inside wiring, you can spray it down real good to remove dirt. You can pick up MAF cleaner at advance auto parts. Not sure if vatozone or oreillys has it. This is a cheap solution that may fix your problem. Report back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow terry you are right every time i go in there i have to get a translator... and you noobs need to learn to let your car warm up before you drive it in cold weather....its not good on your engine to start up and drive immediately

 

I can't let it sit in idle on startup or it just dies.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clean your MAF.

 

How to remove MAF, should be similar on your car http://www.moodym.com/maxima/tech/injen.html

 

Use this http://www.autobarn.net/maairflsecl1.html?site=google_base to clean it, DO NOT touch any of the inside wiring, you can spray it down real good to remove dirt. You can pick up MAF cleaner at advance auto parts. Not sure if vatozone or oreillys has it. This is a cheap solution that may fix your problem. Report back.

 

I have access to a screwdriver and hammer rofl. I'll have to buy/borrow all the other tools. Might report back by this weekend :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

vatozone.....rofl

 

thats right

 

wow terry you are right every time i go in there i have to get a translator... and you noobs need to learn to let your car warm up before you drive it in cold weather....its not good on your engine to start up and drive immediately

 

Yup...thats how you hurt it especially when its cold as fuck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 99 Altima sits there warming up for a good 20 minutes before it warms up its a bitch. recently it isn't starting smoothly at all in the mornings though... fucking cold

 

 

THIS!

 

It hasn't failed on me yet but it feels like it's getting close. Like in Helmin's case, it warms up and it's fine. I at least give it 15-20 minutes before pulling out(lolol) of the driveway. It's taking longer to start though than it used to in the cold :'(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea make sure for an older car like that :sick: in the winter you should use oil that is more viscous because the oil will sludge in very cold weather and its not good to start your car with no oil going through it. Im sure thats the knocking, possible time for a valve job also(involves getting the clearances back to spec).

The car dying sometimes sounds like a possible alternator problem, easy to diagnose that.

 

Also you dont need to take the engine out to do the intake manifold gasket but DEALERSHIPS ARE SCAMMERS, they definately have the tool to diagnose the intake. Find a reputable shop, someone you can trust.

Edited by Never trust a hippie
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea make sure for an older car like that :sick: in the winter you should use oil that is more viscous because the oil will sludge in very cold weather and its not good to start your car with no oil going through it. Im sure thats the knocking, possible time for a valve job also(involves getting the clearances back to spec).

The car dying sometimes sounds like a possible alternator problem, easy to diagnose that.

 

Also you dont need to take the engine out to do the intake manifold gasket but DEALERSHIPS ARE SCAMMERS, they definately have the tool to diagnose the intake. Find a reputable shop, someone you can trust.

 

I'm fairly certain the engine is loose in a 00 maxima when replacing an intake manifold gasket. They diagnosed the intake w/ carb cleaner to check for cracks, but they aren't sure thats whats causing it. I got the alternator replaced about a year ago, and no, it's not the alternator.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

THIS!

 

It hasn't failed on me yet but it feels like it's getting close. Like in Helmin's case, it warms up and it's fine. I at least give it 15-20 minutes before pulling out(lolol) of the driveway. It's taking longer to start though than it used to in the cold :'(

 

Try doing what i suggested for helmin as well. Also could be plugs/fuel, change out your spark plugs and fuel filter if external. Then run some fuel injector cleaner with 91+ octane and see if that helps. This is regular maintenance which i doubt has ever been performed on either one of your cars.

 

Yea make sure for an older car like that :sick: in the winter you should use oil that is more viscous because the oil will sludge in very cold weather and its not good to start your car with no oil going through it. Im sure thats the knocking, possible time for a valve job also(involves getting the clearances back to spec).

The car dying sometimes sounds like a possible alternator problem, easy to diagnose that.

 

Also you dont need to take the engine out to do the intake manifold gasket but DEALERSHIPS ARE SCAMMERS, they definately have the tool to diagnose the intake. Find a reputable shop, someone you can trust.

 

Oil viscosity is fine, no reason to change it with seasons unless you live in extreme climate changes. 5w30 is safe from -30* to 100*. Alot of folks like 10w30 if its hotter year around or on older cars to give a little more oil pressure. Throw in synthetic 5w30 and you're pretty much year around safe in 99% of the US.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try doing what i suggested for helmin as well. Also could be plugs/fuel, change out your spark plugs and fuel filter if external. Then run some fuel injector cleaner with 91+ octane and see if that helps. This is regular maintenance which i doubt has ever been performed on either one of your cars.

 

Recommended fuel injector cleaner ______________________

I filled up the tank with 93 octane today thinking it might help. I'll add fuel injector cleaner upon your recommendation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share