Pro Tips For Choosing A Firearm

[zidian]

This post is for people who don't know much about guns, but would like to get one for self defense. Moreso for concealed carry (after the proper training), but it can be used for home defense as well. After all, it is a firearm. I saw some people on the other post (What do you own) that they were interested in buying a firearm, so I figured I'd help you guys out a little bit with these tips.

 

 

1) Reliability - This is the most important attribute for choosing a firearm. If you are confronted with a situation that you have to use your gun, you better hope it will work. Most reputable manufacturers produce firearms that will work for years without anything major happening besides a very occasional failure to feed or eject/extract, which can be solved by proper training. However, most manufacturers will gladly have you ship it to them and fix whatever problem may be occurring if they can. 1911's are a great gun, but there are a lot of ones that are very unreliable, and the ones that are usually cost a lot from the shop, or will cost you more by taking it to a competent gunsmith and having them work out the kinks.

 

2) Make sure it fits you - This may rub some people the wrong way, but GLOCKs are not for everyone. It was the fire handgun I bought. After I bought my Ruger, I sold my glock because it just wasn't for me. They feel weird in my hand (at least the first 4 gens). They are an extremely reliable gun, but if you don't like it, don't buy it. This leads into my next point.

 

3) Try it first - This was my biggest flaw when I first started buying hand guns. I went with the GLOCK craze because of what everyone said, without buying one first. So I plopped down 600$ on the table top and got one, and then sold it for 400$ not even 3 months later because I knew I would never use it. Most gun ranges have a rental selection, some more extensive than others. Do some research, find something that looks like it would suite you, AND GO TRY IT. It does get costly at times since most ranges require you to use their ammo when you rent a gun, but its worth it. I could have saved 200$ buy spending about 40$ just going to rent it.

 

4) DON'T BE SWAYED BY WHAT ANYONE SAYS, ESPECIALLY PEOPLE WHO WORK AT GUN SHOPS - Most people who work at a gun store are people who couldn't cut it in the Military or Police Dept. They also think they are elite-st because they work at a gun store making slightly more than minimum wage. Take what they say with a grain of salt. There are some good shops out there tho, you just have to find one in your area. Do the research yourself and come to your own conclusions.

 

5) Stopping power and recoil control - I combine these 2 because they are both very much connected. Yes, putting a .45 ACP into someone's chest who is trying to kill you will stop them, but when your adrenaline is pumping your shot might not land exactly where you want it and you require a follow up shot (double tap). However, if the gun slams you on the forehead or flies out of your hand, its not gonna help you out at all. This goes back to numbers 2 and 3, try it first and make sure you can control it. You don't have to be a 6ft 5in 250lb man to shoot a .45 (my girlfriend is 5'4" 110 lbs wet and can shoot my 1911 like a boss), and I've seen plenty of bigger guys not be able to handle it. If you are going to go to the range every week to practice, yes, you will be able to use most any caliber. But if your gonna go to the range every once in a while to make sure you can still shoot, find something that feels good the first time. Most people will say "Ohh, don't get a .22 for self defense, it won't stop anyone". Ask if you can shoot them with it to see. Yes, you might have to shoot more shots, but you will be able to put more shots on target if you can control it. I do recommend not getting anything small than a .380 (for semi-autos) or .38 special (for revolvers), BUT ANY GUN WILL DO IF YOU WILL DO (Stolen from Front Sight Training Academy).

 

6) Ease of Use - This is also a very important piece. Double action (meaning you do not need to cock the hammer/striker back before pulling the trigger) are very easy to use, and most don't have safeties. However, you're going to have to put a lot more effort into pulling the trigger (since pulling the trigger brings back the hammer/striker and then slams it home to fire the round). Single actions (the hammer/striker has to be back before you send the first round down range, but will cock it again if it is a semi - auto) are a little more complex because most will have some sort of safety (manual thumb safety, grip safety, or trigger safety) that you must engage before you fire. There are also guns that are Double action/Single action in which the first trigger pull with bring the hammer back and fire the round, and on each subsequent shot it will already be back, so it will be a lighter trigger pull. Goes back to training ; if you are just going to throw it in the safe and only bring it out every now and again, you may not remember to switch off the safety in a time of crisis. I personally carry a firearm that has a manual safety, but with my training after I clear it out of the holster and aim the firearm down range, it comes off instinctively. TRY IT BEFORE YOU BUY IT, and make sure it will work for you.

 

Also, ALWAYS remember these rules ;

1) Treat every gun as if it were loaded

2) Always keep the gun pointed in a safe direction

3) Always keep your finger off the trigger until ready to fire

4) Know your target and what may lie behind it

 

Thanks again for reading. Be smart and safe.

Edited January 25, 2013 by zidian

[(Headband)(EG)]

.22 cali and .25 cali bounce around inside ur body doin tons of DPS. Some times DPS is better then burst

[zidian]

.22 cali and .25 cali bounce around inside ur body doin tons of DPS. Some times DPS is better then burst

 

But aim for soft tissue. My friend was shot in the forehead with a .22 and it did not do ANY damage besides leaving a 2 inch cut on his forehead.

[Sean Bellafiore]

What would you all suggest for a good first weapon for concealed carry usage? I'm probably going to get a gun for concealed carry come July when I turn 21.

[Cookie]

What would you all suggest for a good first weapon for concealed carry usage? I'm probably going to get a gun for concealed carry come July when I turn 21.

obv a pistol. Trying out a glock is mandatory.

[Sean Bellafiore]

obv a pistol. Trying out a glock is mandatory.

 

I've fired Glocks before and I do really like the way they handle. But as a CCW? I think that the CCW Glocks might not be practical. I've never shot a compact Glock before so I have nothing to base it on.

[^TheRumor^]

What would you all suggest for a good first weapon for concealed carry usage? I'm probably going to get a gun for concealed carry come July when I turn 21.

 

Springfield XDS is unbeatable if you prefer a .45.

 

Any full size pistol is concealable given you have the right clothing.

 

I carry my 1911 and full size XDm .40 during the winter, XDS and M&P Bodyguard in the summer.

Edited March 5, 2013 by ^TheRumor^

[zidian]

Springfield XDS is unbeatable if you prefer a .45.

Any of the XDm or XDs lines are great.

 

I carry a Ruger SR9C as my every day carry. Has a manual safety, which I like. And it is very small (check the picture of it in the "What do you own" thread. Its no bigger than my hand, and I have small hands) but still manageable recoil. I got the 9mm, but also comes in .40. And not to mention its about $450 new. Another cool thing is it can take the compact 10round mag (to make it shorter to carry, so it doesn't print) and can take the full size SR magazines, giving you 17rounds to reload with.

 

But as this thread states, try it before you buy it.

Edited March 5, 2013 by zidian

[Cookie]

I've fired Glocks before and I do really like the way they handle. But as a CCW? I think that the CCW Glocks might not be practical. I've never shot a compact Glock before so I have nothing to base it on.

It matters the glock, a 26 or 27 would probably be the easiest to conceal by the waist.

[Sean Bellafiore]

It matters the glock, a 26 or 27 would probably be the easiest to conceal by the waist.

 

I fired the 40 caliber Springfield XD today. It felt really good in my hands, managable recoil, but I didn't like that my thumb was always on the slide lock. The employee at the range suggested a Glock for concealed carry too. I'll probably try the 9mm or .45 XDS next time I go. Hopefully it'll fit my hands well.

[^TheRumor^]

I fired the 40 caliber Springfield XD today. It felt really good in my hands, managable recoil, but I didn't like that my thumb was always on the slide lock. The employee at the range suggested a Glock for concealed carry too. I'll probably try the 9mm or .45 XDS next time I go. Hopefully it'll fit my hands well.

 

Your thumb should be angled outward away from the slide entirely, there's your problem.

[Deadlock]

Some advice too.

 

If you ever find yourself in the situation where you killed someone in self defense and have to defend yourself in court. You never shoot to kill, you shoot to negate the threat.

[zidian]

To go along with that, heres a few more tips while training (and potential self defense situation).

 

Yell commands to the person you feel is threatening you life. Yell "STOP", and after drawing your gun, yell "STOP OR ILL SHOOT". That way if theres anyone within hearing distance they can be a witness. Don't use profanity because "Stop or I'll shoot you mother fucker" won't go over well.

 

Practice clearing malfunctions regularly. If you are the best shot in the world, if you get a double feed or a stove pipe, it ain't gonna help you if you can't clear it.

 

Train at least 20 minutes a day with a 'dry' weapon (no ammo or dummy rounds). Make sure you are still treating the gun as if it were loaded (The 4 rules of firearm safety). Work on 1 thing in those 20 minutes, weather it be trigger control, your presentation from the holster, malfunction clearing (can use dummy rounds or spent brass), sight alignment/picture, grip, etc. You don't need to goto the range every week to train. Going to the range should just show you how much you've improved since the last time.

 

THE FLINCH. If you are hitting low and to the left (or to the right if your a lefty), it is because before you pull the trigger, you're anticipating the recoil so you push the barrel down. Still to this day this is something I do every so often. This is a very mental thing that, with practice, you can eliminate it (or cause it to happen a lot less frequently).

 

If your Point of Impact is to the left of you Point of Aim, you are 'slapping' the trigger. You should know where your trigger 'breaks'. Press the trigger as far as it will go right before it fires. If your finger is on the trigger, this is at the point it should be at. Then make sure to apply an even straight back pressure to release the shot. After you fire a shot, hold the trigger down. Slowly let it up until you hear a click, this is the reset point. On Double actions its going to be a lot farther out then single action. This is how you maintain fast and accurate shots. Do NOT let your finger fly off the trigger letting it reset to all the way out. That will cause you to slap (or pull) the trigger more on follow up shots.

 

DO NOT BUY A SHOULDER HOLSTER, they make you look like a freakin dumbass. They are the most impractical piece of shooting equipment ever. Don't buy an ankle holster either, unless its for your back up gun.

 

Get a good damn holster. This makes all the difference. IF you are going to do inside the waist band, get kydex or a hybrid (leather and kydex). comp-tac.com makes some good ones as well as http://www.crossbreedholsters.com/. If you get a leather, make sure the mouth of the holster is reinforced leather. You don't want it to close after you draw the gun just in case you have to holster one handed, and you also dont want to open it withe support side hand because you will more than likely point the gun at your own hand.

 

Buy a decent belt. Don't use some small dress belt. Your holster will shift around and when you need your gun, you are going to go the last place you left it, or to where you always train with it at. 5.11 makes a double thick web belt that are pretty good and cheap (like 20$). get at least a 1.5inch wide belt, as this is usually the minimum most holster holes/clips are at. Amerihide is a good company for leather belts and they start at like 60$.

 

I'm sure I'll have some other things to say, but I want to go play some games.

[Jacob D.]

I don't own a firearm. However, I found this very informative. If in the future i consider purchasing a firearm I will take what you have posted under consideration. If you have any other words of wisdom I hope you'll continue to share.

[Tut]

I dunno if this is right place to ask, but I'll take the chance.

 

Does any of you have advice for me about buying Guns for hunting? I'm soon (in 3 months or so) done taking my Hunting license in Denmark, europe and I therefor need a gun, I will get the license when Im exactly 16 so if you know any good Shotguns/pumpguns whatever, that Does not cost a whole bank but that doesnt break into pieces after 500shots, then I'd be lovely to hear on your suggestions!

Thanks

[Sonick]

All depends on what you are hunting Tut.